Coast Paths and a Journey to Scratchy Bottom

Last week we took our baby, Molly, on her first holiday. We spent a few nights in Watchet, Somerset, followed by another four nights in Weymouth. I’d never been to Watchet before. Originally, we’d only booked Monday to Friday in Weymouth, but then we found a private caravan in Watchet for the weekend before, which made a perfect stopover on the way down from Herefordshire.

We weren’t far from Minehead either, which was another place I hadn’t visited before. The South West Coast Path begins in Minehead, and over the years on our trips to Devon, Cornwall, and Dorset, we’ve walked quite a few stretches of it. I won’t pretend we’re anywhere close to ticking off all 630 miles, but we have managed to walk sections in 18 different spots along its route. While we were nearby, we spent a day in Minehead and checked out the brilliant sculpture that marks the start of the trail.

You’d think we’d walk a stretch of the path while we were there, but with our heavy pram and a stronger pull towards the pub, there wasn’t much point. I mainly wanted to see the starting point, and I have huge respect for anyone who sets off from that sign and tackles all 630 miles. It takes real determination, plenty of strength, and above all, time. To do the whole thing at a relaxed pace, you’d need about seven or eight weeks free.

We did manage a proper walk from where we were staying in Watchet, though. We set off on a circular route that took us along the pebble beach and back over the clifftops, passing a cracking little waterfall on the way. I have to admit I was slightly annoyed by that waterfall. I’d once slogged eight miles over mountains to find a hidden one to name after my daughter, and yet her first waterfall turned out to be this random one instead. I was also mildly outraged that the only pub on our route had a framed Bristol City shirt on the wall. It was a brilliant, quirky pub otherwise, but they’d completely ruined it with that. Up the Gas.

We did get a chance to walk a couple of short stretches of the South West Coast Path when we headed to Weymouth. 

The first was the section near Durdle Door because we'd never been there and also because there was a sign for Scratchy Bottom further along the path from there (see my World Tour of Daft Places post). That was an incredible little walk but as with most amazing places in the southern part of this weird island of ours, it was packed with Instagram tourists. I prefer more of a hidden gem. It might not be as impressive, but at least you don't have to watch someone posing for 738 photos in front of it. Anyway, here are some photos of us posing in front of things on the path.

My next little wander on the South West Coast Path that week was heading east from Weymouth. Stace and Molly were knackered at the end of a long week and I fancied seeing what the views were like past the derelict hotel near where we were staying in Bowleaze Cove. I'd go for a sunset walk on the cliffs on my own, which seems really sad but it was magical. I like apocalyptic looking structures and that hotel was a fine example. It looked like something from Fear the Walking Dead. It reminded me of the time I had to force Stace to leave a nice warm cafe in Brno to come with me on a tram to a crumbling old football stadium I'd found on Google Maps. She was spared that boredom this time. 

The derelict hotel near Bowleaze Cove.

The derelict football stadium in Brno. 

As it was relatively late I had the path to myself and would keep walking until I needed to head back before it got dark or if I just found something interesting. It was a class walk and as much as I love being out walking with my family, I also really enjoy getting out and about exploring on my own and spending time with my thoughts. I saw a really long beach ahead of me that looked reachable in the time I had before sunset, so I headed for that at a reasonable pace. 

I got to the steps down to the beach and there was still no one about. The whole beach was empty. I hadn't really walked that far away from the busy town of Weymouth, yet I had my own massive beach to sit on and enjoy the day's end and the last bottle of rough cider we had in the fridge in the caravan. 

It doesn't get much better than that. It does to be fair, but it was still really good. The 6.9% cider called Bit of Ruff with a cartoon of a dog on the front was surprisingly quite a pleasant drop. To a passer by I'd have looked like a deeply troubled person sat there on my own boozing in the fading light by the sea, but there weren't any passers by, which was glorious. 

I finished my cider and realised I was risking a walk along the cliffs in the dark without a decent torch which would have been a bit daft, so I started heading back. I was treated to a beautiful sunset along the way. Absolutely mint.

That walk was ace. I'd just gone out with a spare couple of hours for a beautiful wander on my own and it was so good for the soul. When I've been out kipping in the woods by myself on wild camping trips, a few people asked Stace if I was losing it or something. It's quite the opposite really. I think having these little solo adventures is great for your mental health and time alone gives you clear thoughts and reflections of the positives in your life. In my opinion, too many people have the wrong priorities in a materialistic, rat race of a world. My definition of success is having the biggest smile on your face rather than having the best car. If you work stressful 60 hour weeks to buy a big house that you basically just sleep in, are you really successful? It's important to find the right balance in the short time we have. I've got a half decent job but I also get precious time with my family and precious time to occasionally get out on my own and be that troubled looking person who actually is just having a lovely time. 

To finish, here are some pictures of some of our previous wanders on the South West Coast Path. There are many, many more photos on my Instagram account lol.