Castles and Camps: Farmland Camping and a Walk to Kilpeck

Camping on farmland overlooking Hatterrall Ridge, Herefordshire 

This weekend just gone we celebrated my wife Stace's 42nd birthday in our usual style. A bit of family time in the countryside with plenty of booze. We'd camp in a big group and I'd get up early to go on a morning dog walk with beautiful scenery and some interesting history. We all rocked up to her mum and stepdad's farm near Pontrilas in our home county of Herefordshire to pitch up in one of their fields. It's a lovely spot to camp in, looking out towards the Black Mountains. 

As much as Stace loves the idea of camping, she wasn't about to squeeze into one of my little tents and she happily claimed a space in her sister's caravan instead. We did bring our bigger tent too in fairness, but it's the one I absolutely hate because it's almost impossible to get back in the bag. I got a bigger bag for it, but the tent seems to have grown just to keep annoying me and it still takes me about 7 attempts at rolling it up before I can get it to fit back in. I thought I'd got away with leaving it packed but then our nephew and nieces decided they wanted to camp as well. So I ended up pitching it for them and having to wrestle it back into that tiny bag the next morning while they all rode around the fields on quad bikes. They have enjoyed wonderful childhoods on this farm though and I'm glad Molly is going to get the same experience. 

I got my tiny Phoxx 2 tent pitched anyway and, like a miserable hermit, I set it up a bit away from the others so I could enjoy a little peace in the countryside for a bit. I've camped on the farm a couple of times before. The last time, my little dog Wilf joined me in one of the more remote and overgrown fields. This time was a certainty less "wild" than previous visits as I now had access to a toilet in a caravan, rather than having to dig a hole with my plastic camping trowel. Wilf would join me again in the tent, as he seemed to love the little adventure we had on the previous visit. 

Stace and Wilf in my Phoxx 2 tent

Our one-year-old daughter Molly bunked in with grandparents Carol and Gordon in their caravan. Probably the warmest option for her. Stace's sister Tam turned up with her brand new Coleman tent which is basically a massive roundhouse. It made my tent look like a shoe box. Fair play to her though, it did look spot on. 

Basecamp

The Coleman Octagon (right)

Spot the antisocial person's tent

We had a barbecue on the go (thanks to my brother-in-law Jimm) and enjoyed burgers and hot dogs washed down with far too much beer, rum and gin. I got handed a concoction drink that looked like spoiled milk, with a manky layer on the top. Everyone else tipped theirs away, but I was the idiot that drank it. We then enjoyed an incredible sunset. My wife's family got to understand why I love wild camping, when previously they thought I was a bit of a weirdo for disappearing into the wilderness with my tent. Just a month ago I'd camped up on the mountain ridge in the distance, looking down on these same fields.

Happy family

Glorious sunset in Herefordshire

Stace and sisters enjoying the sunset

After all the gin, rum and rancid looking cocktails I properly struggled to find my little tent in the dark which was pretty embarrassing. Staggering around a field at midnight whispering to my dog "Wilf, where's the tent mate?". Thanks to the booze I slept like a log once I found the tent, until about 5:30 in the morning when my bladder felt like it was about to burst. Wilf looked up at me like he'd been waiting all night for me to move so we headed off down the lanes together.

Wilf ready to leave the tent and get walking

With Wilf on a walk to Kilpeck

We walked over to Kilpeck Church and the old castle next to it. Kilpeck Church (The Church of St Mary and St David) is a little hidden gem in Herefordshire and is one of the best examples of Norman architecture you can find. It was built around 1140 and is famous for its amazing stone carvings all around the outside. The most talked about carving is the Sheena-na-gig which is probably the most famous example of it in the world. This strange figure is said to be about ancient ideas of fertility and protection. The church is small but full of history and it is a really interesting place for anyone who loves old churches and unusual carvings.

The Church of St Mary and St David, Kilpeck

Stone carvings on Kilpeck Church

The famous Sheena-na-gig on Kilpeck Church

Not far from the church you can find the remains of Kilpeck Castle, a ruined motte and bailey structure. It was built soon after the Norman Conquest to help control the border with Wales. Today there's not much left apart from a grassy mound and small sections of the old walls but you can still get a feel for what it must have been like when it was a busy medieval fort. There are also some wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. 

The view west from Kipeck Castle

The remains of Kilpeck Castle

Information about Kilpeck Castle on one of the remaining walls

The motte of Kilpeck Castle

After my little history lesson we followed some of the Herefordshire Trail back through fields and woodland. By the time we got back to camp I'd walked 5 miles with a stinking hangover and about 5 hours sleep. I was knackered but Wilf was still raring to go as usual.

Waymarker for the Herefordshire Trail, Kilpeck

Footpath through the woods, Kilpeck

A muddy path to a stile, Herefordshire

When I arrived back at camp, everyone was now up. We packed everything away which took forever as it always does, especially squeezing that massive tent back into its stupid bag, but with the help of Gordon we got it done. Then we hit the road and stopped at McDonald's in Belmont for lunch on the way home. Molly managed to throw half her Happy Meal on the floor and ate about seven chips. Fantastic.

Despite the others sleeping in caravans and far more glamourous tents, I still prefer my little tents to be honest. Feels more wild and less like glamping which is exactly how I like it. Stace had a great birthday party, and I got my fix of canvas and some peace. Not a bad way to spend a summer weekend.