The Pembrokeshire Coast Path: From Tenby to Amroth

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Tenby is one of those places that every Herefordshire kid seems to know. When I was growing up, a caravan holiday in Kiln Park was almost a rite of passage. I don’t think you can really call yourself a proper Herefordshire person if you have not been at least once. For us it was a regular family holiday spot with caravans full of uncles, aunties and cousins. Long days on the beach, in the arcades and browsing the latest Sega Mega Drive games in Woolworths. My mum and her siblings went there when they were kids too. Coming back to Kiln Park with my wife Stace and our fifteen month old daughter Molly felt like carrying on a tradition.

This time I had an idea for something a bit different, which of course involved dragging Stace and Molly on a long walk. I had been looking at the Pembrokeshire Coast Path and noticed that Amroth (one end of this National Trail) was close enough to walk in a day. It would be roughly 8.5 miles from our caravan. With Molly in her carrier it seemed like a challenge worth taking on.

We were planning to get the bus to Amroth first thing and walk back, but mornings with a toddler are not straightforward. By the time we were ready, the bus option had gone, so we swapped the plan around. We would walk to Amroth and get the bus back.

The opening stretch through Tenby was a beautiful and easy way to start. A wide golden beach with the tide pushed out, and the pastel houses looking down from the harbour. It was all going smoothly until we realised that one of Molly’s boots had slipped off. FFS. Stace went all the way back down the winding path to the sand to try and find it but came back with nothing. To cover ourselves we bought a pair of knock-off Crocs in Tenby. They were a size too big but better than nothing. Probably.

Kiln Park to Tenby along South Beach

St Catherine's Island and fort, Tenby

North Beach, Tenby

Once you leave Tenby the character of the path changes. From the cliff tops you drop into woodland where the trail climbs and dips constantly. The gradients are sharp in places, short but steep, with roots underfoot and lots of gruelling steps. It was hard going with Molly on my back and felt like a proper test of my legs, my back and my resolve. The descents can be just as punishing as the ascents, especially where the path narrows and you are negotiating loose gravel or damp soil. Every now and then the trees opened up and you got a rewarding view of the sea before going back under the canopy. 

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path between Tenby and Saundersfoot 

Sea views from the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

One of the many climbs between Tenby and Saundersfoot 

By the time we reached Saundersfoot, the sight of the harbour felt like a reward in itself. Molly and her carrier now weigh more than my 70 litre backpack full of wild camping gear. My tent doesn't try to slap the back of my head either. We stopped at the Captain’s Table pub for a drinks break and tried Molly in the new Crocs. She stood still, refused to move, and gave me a look that said "Nah mate. Find the boot".

Approaching Saundersfoot Bay

Another ascent before Saundersfoot 

A break by the marina in Saundersfoot 

The path from Saundersfoot to Wisemans Bridge is flatter and much easier underfoot. It follows the old colliery railway line and passes through tunnels cut into the cliffs. The ground is level here, which was a relief after the relentless ups and downs earlier in the walk. The sound of the waves comes through the stone, and each tunnel exit gives you another framed view of the sea.

The colliery railway tunnels between Saundersfoot and Wisemans Bridge

A happy Molly in the carrier in Wisemans Bridge

The last leg from Wisemans Bridge to Amroth runs closer to the coast, partly on tarmac and partly on well-trodden tracks with views across Carmarthen Bay. There was an initial uphill slog along a lane, but it wasn't as bad as the steeper sections we'd walked. Up at the top, we met a friendly older couple who warned us not to take the 87 steps down into Amroth, suggesting the road instead. I had a quick look on Google Maps at the longer road diversion and we just went for the steps. They were narrow and uneven in places, but perfectly manageable heading down. I was glad not to be climbing them though, especially with Molly on my back. Missing that morning bus had been a blessing in disguise.

Approaching Amroth on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Some of the 87 steps (I think they said 87)

A sculpture made from recycled plastic and ghost netting, Amroth

Reaching the little monument at Amroth that marks the end the Pembrokeshire Coast Path felt like a bigger victory than I was expecting, considering we'd only only walked one section of this 186 mile trail. We had covered 8.7 miles in about three and a half hours excluding stops, but a lot of those miles were really hard work.

Reaching the end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path monument, Amroth

I properly loved that walk. It was great exercise and a wonderful experience in the outdoors with my little family. The only real low point came on the bus back. Molly had been an angel all day but chose that moment to cry through the winding fifty minute journey around what felt like every street in Pembrokeshire. Still, it did little to take away from what had been a brilliant day.

The bus stop near Amroth Castle

Molly, Stace and I on the bus from Amroth to Tenby

And to round it off, the following day on a more gentle walk around Tenby, we spotted Molly’s missing boot balanced neatly on a fence post. Thank you to all the good people that leave lost boots, hats, gloves etc in obvious nearby places for the owners to find. My dwindling faith in the human race had been momentarily revitalised until I next looked at the general garbage people share on Facebook. It was a small reward, but the perfect end to our family adventure.

A perfect ending

The route